The Story Behind the 5-Needle Binder Neck
In Japanese heritage clothing, beauty is often found in the parts that are not immediately obvious. A neckline, a seam, a stitch line — these quiet details may look simple at first, but they often carry the deepest story of how a garment is made.
The 5-needle binder neck is one of those details.
Unlike a standard T-shirt collar, this construction uses five rows of stitching to secure the neckline with strength, balance, and a distinctive visual rhythm. It is not only a decorative detail, but also a highly specialised sewing method that requires the right machine, the right adjustment, and the experience to control the fabric properly.
For this special neckline, Deluxeware uses a rare custom sewing machine based on a 1960s Union Special Model 528 3-needle machine.
According to Deluxeware founder Hayato Muramatsu, the machine was rebuilt and customised specifically for 5-needle construction. Every required part was recreated from scratch together with skilled craftsmen, turning it into a one-of-a-kind machine that exists nowhere else in the world.
At Mention Clothing, we are always drawn to garments that carry this kind of hidden depth. Pieces that do not need to speak loudly, but reveal their value through fabric, construction, and the hands behind the making.
The 5-needle binder neck is a small part of the garment, but it tells a much bigger story.
5-Needle Crew Neck Plain T-Shirt – Mention Exclusive.